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The instructions below are for Twin Cam engines, EVO Big Twins & Sporsters are the same, just slightly different rocker support assemblies

Your kit should include 4 ROCKOUT inserts (and a spare!) , 2 Viton© O-rings where required, a flat washer, and a 5/16-18 hex nut. You’ll also need various hand tools, a torque wrench, some compressed air (those cans of air from the office supply store work great) and access to a repair manual.
 Remove the main fuse from the bike before beginning.
Start by removing the rocker box covers per instructions in your manual. This typically will involve removing the seat & gas tank for access.  Once you have the covers off, you need to make sure the cam for the cylinder you’re working on is on the “base circle”. This means the lifters and pushrods are all the way down, the valves are completely closed. The easiest way to do this is to support the bike & raise the rear wheel. Remove the sparkplugs (first blow any debris away from the holes) & place the transmission in the highest gear. Rotate the rear wheel while watching the pushrods and/or rocker arms  of the cylinder you’re working on. When they are BOTH all the way down & no longer moving as you rotate the wheel, stop, that’s your base circle. Now first remove the two breather screws, and then the four rocker support bolts per the instructions in your manual. You’ll want to work slowly, in a crisscrossing manor as the pushrods are still under some pressure from the lifters. Lift the rocker support and rocker assembly off & transfer it to your work bench. (Notice there is an O-ring under the support plate). Cover the open rocker box with a clean lint free shop towel.
 The ROCKOUT inserts are installed on the air cleaner side of the support plate. Assemble one shaft/rockerarm assembly into the support plate.  Make sure that the notch in the rocker shaft is aligned with the cross hole for the bolt, and that the rocker arm is in the correct orientation. (Put a support bolt through the support plate and the shaft to help line it up, remove the bolt) Place a ROCKOUT insert into the hole from the top, small end in first. They are tapered & will only go in to the correct initial height one way.  (Tip from a customer… use the included washer as a gage to determine the small end if needed… only that end will go through the washer) The top of the insert should sit about 3/8 inch above the support plate, if not check to see the notch in the shaft is aligned and the small end of the insert is in the hole. Place the rocker support bolt through the insert, through the support plate and shaft, and put the included flat washer & hex nut on the end. The washer has a smooth side and a “burr” side… put the smooth side towards the support. Hold the support bolt  with a wrench, while slowly tightening the hex nut . You will draw the insert down into the hole. Stop when the bolt head touches the support plate & reverse to remove the bolt.  (You may have to tap the bolt gently to remove it). The insert and shaft are now locked in place. Repeat on the other rocker shaft.
 Using a clean shop towel, wipe clean the underside of the support plate as well as the surface in the rocker box that it sits on. Using compressed air, blow out the holes in the rocker box where the support bolts and breather bolts go. (If oil is in there it will have no place to go when the bolts are tightened, damage is possible).  Replace the O-ring with the one provided in the kit. Place the rocker/support assembly in the rocker box making sure the pushrods are in the pockets in the rockers, and the rocker tips are over the valve stems. Tightening a little at a time in a crisscrossing manor, install the four support bolts per instructions in your manual, including any thread sealant indicated.  Do the same with the breather bolts.  Replace the rocker cover & you’re done!
 It is IMPORTANT that you let the pushrods/lifters bleed down for 30 minutes before rotating  the engine or damage may occur. After this period of time, repeat the steps on the other cylinder.
Here's a few pix to help you along. This is from my Limited, but other bikes will be similar....
Remove the center console. I don't remove it all the way, just unclip  the vent hose & lay it back on a soft towel, on the bag lid/fender
The tank has a bolt on each side at the front, and 2 at the rear. Remove these and the vent hose, letting the hose drop to the side (see arrow).  Disconnect the plug from the main wiring harness & wrap the wiring around the filler neck. Disconnect the fuel hose underneath the tank (caution, some fuel may spray out). Now you can lift the tank off & store it in a safe place.
On a wethead you'll have the coolant lines running over the front cover. Put some tape over the  rocker cover, and around the stabilizer bolt to make sure nothing gets scratched. Some folks loosen the stabilzer bracket bolts on the front cylinder to get a little more room.  Carefully lift the cover off, turning it, angling it, etc. and it will come out without disconnecting the lines. One customer said he slid the fairing lower over a little to gain some room but I've never had to do so.
Once the rocker covers are off, this is what the insides look like. This is the rear cylinder. Notice the two bolts at the back, by the arrows. These can be hard to remove completely, they want to hit the frame. Don't pull them all the way out. Just completely unscrew them & lift them out along with the rocker/support assembly. Install them the same way.
The rocker box with the support assembly removed, now you can blow out the oil in the bolt holes. This is very important! Oil gets trapped in there & will have nowhere to go when a bolt is tightened on top of it, damage can occur.
Oil from one of the bolt holes.
A short video showing the oil removal process. Again, this is very imprtant.
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This is the O-ring that is under each support plate. (You'll find new ones in your kit) This is one of the reasons I advise removing the support plates & doing the work on the bench. "Brand X" has suggested that you can just leave the supports on the bike, loosen the bolts & let the plate lift up... removing the bolts one at a time & pounding inserts in. If you do this, the O-ring can stick to the plate, shift off center, and not go back into it's recess in the rocker box. PLEASE do the job right! This is why from day one I included the O-rings and installation hardware in my kits.
Here's a complete rocker assembly removed and on the bench. Good job!
 Note the gap between the bolt and the support at the arrow in the lower left corner.... this is what we're here to fix.
This is an insert placed in the hole & ready to install. Make sure it's aligned with the notch in the shaft, and that about 3/8" is sticking up out of the hole. You should be able to push it in about this far by hand. If not, double check to make sure things are aligned.
Put one of your support bolts through the insert and support plate, and add the washer & nut from the kit. The washer may have a rough side and a smooth side, if so place the smooth side against the support. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ROCKER ARM ON THE SHAFT IN THE CORRECT ORIENTATION, it's easy to get caught up in things & forget, trust me :)
Using two wrenches, hold the bolt while turning the nut, slowly drawing the insert into the support plate. It should go in easily with little force.  If you feel a lot of resistance, and/or the insert starts to flare out STOP, something isn't lined up right... go back & check things again.
Draw the insert in until the bolt head just touches the support, no need to go any tighter. Remove the bolt, nut & washer. Repeat on the other shaft.
Both inserts installed, nice work!
 Adding any aftermarket parts to your engine may affect your vehicle  warranty. Please see your local Harley Davisdon dealer with any questions in this regard.
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